Epic Romania Road Trip Guide – Off the Beaten Path Itinerary

Capra Lake

This Romania road trip guide describes an itinerary that loops through some of Romania’s most beautiful regions, 8 road trip stops in total. With the focus on smaller towns and nature, rather than larger, cities I will cover lots of off-the-beaten-path adventures through Romania’s unique landscapes and picturesque villages.

Three times I had tried visiting Romania before but something came in between every single time. The first time the weather seemed really bad so while on our way there we decided to do a Balkan road trip starting from Montenegro. The second time the travels stayed in planning fase and because of a worldwide pandemic that seemed pretty severe in Romania I decided to go to Slovakia instead. Third time’s a charm so in August of 2021 I finally made it to the beautiful country of Romania.

When I did this Romanian road trip I drove all the way from Belgium with my own car. It’s also perfectly possible to follow this route with a rented car starting in Bucharest or Cluj-Napoca. Also feel free to change the order or adjust this road trip loop according to your needs.

Find below my route on a Google map:

For each stop on this road trip I will suggest how many days you need but obviously you can adjust according to your own needs and wishes.

General Romania knowledge

  • Capital: Bucharest
  • Currency: Romanian Lei (RON)
  • Population: 19,3 million (2020)
  • Language: Romanian (English is quite widely spoken except for in the non-touristy small villages)

How is driving in Romania?

Around bigger cities the traffic can get quite hectic. When driving from Bucharest to Brasov for example I was in a traffic jam for about 2 hours. On the way to the Danube Delta there where huge traffic jams to get on the ferry as well. I noticed construction works of a new bridge were going on so soon this problem might be solved.

In Romania it is quite common to see farmers with horse carriages on small and larger roads. When entering a highway there’s a ‘no horse carriages allowed’ sign.

My experience traveling in Romania

In Romania people are genuinely friendly and not just because they want your tourist money, they actually care about helping you in the best way they can.

During my road trip throug Romania I especially loved the regions that are less touristy like the Maramures or Bucovina regions close to the border with Ukraine. When visiting Brasov for example there was a completely different atmosphere that I didn’t enjoy as much as other places. Especially Bran castle, which is the alleged Dracula castle, was a huge tourist trap in my opinion.

When it comes to cities I would say Sibiu was my favorite. I enjoyed the vibe of the city, also the colorful houses added to a nice city trip experience.

Enough with the introduction, let’s get to the actual Romania road trip itinerary now!

1. Breb

Romania road trip itinerary 1st stop is Breb: 3 hours driving from Cluj-Napoca
3 nights stay

The Maramures region together with the Danube Delta had always been pretty much on the top of my list when I was planning my Romania road trip. The more research I did, the more excited I got about it! Whenever I travel I’m looking for authentic experiences and in the Maramures there are plenty.

When looking for a nice hub to travel around from I marked Breb as my main place of interest. Because, as usual, I book accomodation pretty late. Everything that was a bit affordable seemed to be sold out in Breb. I decided to look around in one of the other towns around and noticed that Ocna Sugatag seemed a good alternative at only 10 minutes driving from Breb.

Also check out my Youtube video about the Maramures: Breb – Magical village in Maramures Romania

Places to stay around Breb

I stayed at Casa Alberta in Ocna Sugatag for about 120 Lei per night (24 EUR). Even though officially the price didn’t include breakfast, Ulrica, the owner prepared me a delicious breakfast. She wouldn’t accept me to pay for it. This happens often with Romanians. They are beyond friendly! While I was there they were busy building an indoor and outdoor pool. Hot tubs for winter time were available as well. It looked all very promising! Prices might go up I assume once all this new infrastructure is finished.

If you prefer to stay in Breb, some people told me about a great camping/hostel called Babou owned by Dutch people.

If you’re with a large group you could rent this Airbnb called Breb 148. It accomodates up to 6 people. I haven’t stayed there but I met the owners and they are wonderful people! They also have a restaurant so if you happen to be in Breb I would 100% recommend to grab something to eat at their place Breb 148 local food and garden. I tried the Sarmale and it was delicious! Click here to find the exact location.

In total I spend 3 nights or 2 full days in the area of Breb and Ocna Sugatag and this is what I did:

1. Wander around Breb village

Immediately when driving towards the village of Breb you are greeted with a unique landscape. The hay stacked in Maramures style with in the background the church from Breb sure make for a beautiful view.

When arriving in the village the asphalted road stops and turns into gravel roads. It’s like this in the whole village. Don’t worry a 4×4 car is not necessary. The amount of potholes are fairly limited.

When I started exploring the village I met a German couple that recommended me to take the stairs inside the church tower to get a nice view over Breb. After entering through a side access door I arrived at the first floor of the church. The rest of the stairs looked pretty sketchy and it was full of pigeon poop so I decided to go back. However, just so you know it is possible to get up there!

While roaming through the village it was hard not to notice the wooden churches. These are quite typical for the Maramures region. To my surprise they were even building a new one. In Belgium churches are being demolished or sold off to private owners and in Romania I saw a few new churches being built. It really shows how much religion is still alive there. Apart from the impressive churches it’s just super relaxing to walk around and see how people are going by their daily lives. I really enjoyed the tranquility!

2. Visit Mara waterfall

After spending most of the day in Breb I decided to drive to Mara. I knew there was a waterfall there but didn’t really know what to expect.

Upon my arrival in Mara I was slightly dissapointed because of the amount of people that were there. It seemed that because of the waterfall, which is right next to the main street, lots of other tourist attractions were build.

The waterfall of Mara, just next to the road.
The waterfall of Mara, just next to the road.

The waterfall is the main attraction from Mara village. There’s a huge restaurant build around it. The restaurant stretches far beyond the waterfall. There are even tables higher up in the mountain. All I could think of, while having some delicious food, was how hard it must be for the waiters to cover so much distance when waiting the tables up there. A local friend recommended me to try the fish dish as that’s their specialty. Me, being not the biggest fish lover, I chose chicken instead. It was pretty good. Also the beer was approved!

Opposed to the Mara waterfall there are some bars. While walking up towards the first bar, which has a pool, I noticed there was another complex being built. Out of curiosity I walked past is and saw it was a huge bar with infinity pool. In the summer of 2021 it wasn’t ready yet but my guess would be by Spring or Summer 2022 it will be finished. So if you’re an infinity-pool-babe (or dude), you know what to do!

3. Hike to Creasta Cocosolui

A scenic 21 kilometer hike with an elevation gain of about 1000 meters that starts in the cosy little village of Breb in the Maramures region of Romania.

Creasta Cocosolui in Maramures Romania.
Creasta Cocosolui in Maramures Romania.

Basically you start in the center of Breb and follow the well marked red crosses until you reach the Creasta Cocosolui. The hike from Breb to Creasta Cocosolui and back to Breb took me about 7 hours in total.

The first kilometers are mostly through the forest. After a few hours you reach the meadows that lay at the foot of Creasta Cocosolui. The last hour towards the peak of about 1450 meter is the hardest but sure is worth it!

In this article I describe the complete hike in detail: Hike to Creasta Cocosolui from Breb in the Maramures in Romania.

2. Borsa and Rodna National Park

Romania road trip itinerary 2nd stop is Borsa: 2 hours driving from Breb
2 nights stay

Also in the Maramures region you find Borsa. This town is often described as the entrance to the Rodna National Park, is a true hiking paradise. If I would’ve had more time I would definitely plan some more hikes there. This national park alone is already a good reason to visit Romania again!

Places to stay in Borsa

Borsa is a city of about 28 000 inhabitants and has lots of accommodation options. If you’re planning to visit the waterfall I would recommend to stay in the same area as me. It’s basically at the foot of the chairlift to Cascada Cailor. There are lots of hotels around and there’s a restaurant called Pizzeria Rustika that serves great food. And despite the name they don’t only serve pizza!

Where I stayed:

As it was possible to park my car on the parking of the guesthouse I didn’t have to bother looking for a parking to visit Cascada Cailor. I could walk straight to the chairlifts to get there.

There were basically 2 reasons that I visited Borsa and both involved waterfalls. One of the most famous waterfalls in Romania and one of the most hidden ones. Guess for which one I was the most excited?

1. Cascada Cheilor

While doing tons of research I found out about this ‘hidden’ waterfall in Romania. Apparently it’s not even sure what the name is of this masterpiece. According to Google it’s Cascada Cheilor, other sources call it Cascada Plaiul Scàri.

Hidden waterfall in Borsa
Hidden waterfall Cascada Cheilor in Borsa

I had to search a bit and it was raining really hard that day but despite all that it was completely worth it. This waterfall was absolutely stunning and I had it all for myself! I made a Youtube video about the whole experience as well: Hunting hidden waterfalls in Borsa, Romania

This is my tracked route on Wikiloc:

Powered by Wikiloc

Alternatively you can check out my route on Strava.

Download the GPX file right here: Hike-to-waterfall-Cheilor-Borsa-Maramures-Romania.gpx

The good thing is it’s only about 30 minutes walking from Manastirea Pietroasa where you can park your car. There are also other hikes that start here.

For example the hike to the glacier lake Lacul Iezer that is protected by UNESCO. And if you’re really courageous you could continue hiking to the peak of Pietrosul Rodnei (2303 m). This article from the blog Here I hike describes in detail how to reach the top of Pietrosul Rodnei.

2. Cascada Cailor

Cascada Cailor is a 100 meter high waterfall that drops in three stages. It’s the highest waterfall in Romania so I really wanted to see this with my own eyes!

To get an idea of how the waterfall looks check out my youtube video.

Cascada Cailor the highest waterfall in Romania.
Cascada Cailor the highest waterfall in Romania.

Location:

The best way to get to Cascada Cailor is with the chairlifts. In Romanian this is called Telescaun. Official website of Telescaun Borsa Cascada Cailor.

Address: Strada Brădet 22, Borșa 435200, Romania

Prices:

  • One-way ticket
    • 20 lei for adults
    • 10 lei for kids younger than 12 years old
  • Return ticket
    • 30 lei for adults
    • 15 lei for kids younger than 12 years old

I decided to walk back so I bought a one-way ticket.

Reaching the waterfall:

The chairlifts are 2-seaters and as I was alone I got one all for myself. The journey to get up took about 20 minutes. When getting off from there’s a bar / restaurant where you could grab something to drink or eat. Also there are public toilets available. Now let’s get started on the walk to Cascada Cailor.

It is about a 45 minute walk to the waterfall and it’s mostly flat or descending. This is pretty effortless if you have basic fitness level. However I saw lots of people struggling to get back from the waterfall to the chairlift station. Glad I took another way back down!

Walking back:

When I saw the waterfall in the distance it looked pretty impressive. When I came closer however I noticed there wasn’t much water flowing down and there were lots of people. Of course it’s the highest waterfall in Romania so obviously this is a big tourist attraction. I climb up next to the waterfall to get a better angle on it. I spend about 20 minutes there and then slowly made my way back down. Just a few hundred meters away from the waterfall there are some benches next tot the river. I had a nice lunch break there while looking on my maps.me application how I could get back down. Info at the waterfall regarding hikes back down was non existent. Basically you follow the trail next to the river and in about 1h30 minutes you arrive on a road that leads you back to civilization.

In my Strava upload I started tracking just after I took the chairlift up until I made it back down to the village.

Upon my arrival I had a well deserved delicious Sarmale at Pizzeria Rustika. I know from the name you would think they only serve pizza but they actual had great local dishes as well!

3. Via Transilvanica – Bucovina

Romania road trip itinerary 3rd stop is Sadova: 2 hours driving from Borsa
4 nights stay

Orange Via Transilvanica marks
Orange Via Transilvanica marks

The Via Transilvanica is a hiking trail that is about 1200 kilometers long and starts in Putna in the North of Romania close to the Ukrainian border and ends in Drobeta Turnu-Severin at the Serbian Border. It is divided into sections of usually around 20 kilometer with each time a village at the start/end where you can book accomodation and eat something.

When I explain what the Via Transilvanica is to strangers I always tell them it’s the Santiago de Compostela from Romania.

If you want to follow the same route as me, I wrote an article that describes everything in detail here: Hiking The Via Transilvanica In Bucovina – Romania

4. Danube Delta

Romania road trip itinerary 4th stop is Tulcea: 8 hours driving from Sadova
4 nights stay

Boat tour in the Danube Delta.
Boat tour in the Danube Delta.

Originating in the Black Forest in Germany the Danube flows for about 2850 kilometer through 10 countries. The Danube Delta is the river delta created by the Danube right before it ends up in the Black Sea. The delta is shared between Romania and Ukraine with the largest portion being in Romania. 3,446 km2 from the total area of 4,152 km2 .

When reaching the delta the Danube branches out into the Chilia branch, the Sulina branch and the Sfantu Gheorghe Branch (Saint George). The Sulina and Sfantu Gheorghe branches are the most visited ones by tourists. In this article I will focus on the Sulina branch as that’s the one I visited.

For a full travel guide about Mila 23 which is in the heart of the Danube Delta check out this article: Travel Guide – Danube Delta on the Sulina Branch

5. Bucharest

Romania road trip itinerary 5th stop is Bucharest: 4 hours driving from Tulcea
2 nights stay

Places to stay in Bucharest

As Bucharest is the capital of Romania there are lots of options when it comes to accomodation in all price ranges. There’s a metro system and taking Uber is possible as well.

Where I stayed:

Usually when I stay in a rather large city I try to find something within walking distance from most interesting areas. In Bucharest I stayed in an apartment so I could do some laundry and have a proper table/desk to get some work done. I found an apartment in an interesting neighborhood and on top off that it had a beautiful view from the 13th floor over the Parliament building.

Panorama the Parliament Palace (link to Booking.com)
Price was about 250 lei OR 50 EUR / night
Click here to get the exact address

More info about Bucharest

My main reason to go to Bucharest was to visit some friends, do my laundry and catch up on some work so I didn’t do much exploring. I found a great article online that can help you to find some cool spots in the capital of Romania:

Guide to the best things to do in Bucharest, Capital of Romania

6. Brașov

Romania road trip itinerary 6th stop is Brasov: 3 hours driving from Bucharest
2 nights stay

Places to stay in Brasov

Brasov is one of the larger cities in Romania and very popular amongst tourists because of the beautiful old town and Bran castle that isn’t too far away. Because of the touristy scene there is lots of accomodation available in all price categories. Also because I knew it would be quite touristy here I decided to only stay 2 nights. To properly explore this region you would probably need a few days more.

Where I stayed:

Similar to Bucharest I booked an apartment that was affordable and not too far away from the center. La Rossa, where I stayed, was about 10 minutes walking and very spacious. You could stay here with 4 people so by myself I had plenty of space! If you would like to see a room tour and some of my other adventures around Brasov and Bran Castle have a look at my video: Brasov – Tourist trap or Tourist Paradise?

Sunset at Brasov old town.
Sunset at Brasov old town.

Below some recommendations of what to do in and around Brasov.

1. Discovering the old town

One of the things I usually do in a city like Brasov is wandering around the city without really knowning where to go on the search for some cool spots. There was an abundance of bars and restaurants with lots of delicious food. I wandered around during golden hour which made for some great photos and videos. As it was a late summer night there were plenty of people out and about.

In all honesty I should’ve had at least one day more to explore Brasov properly. Especially the telecabina that leads up to the Hollywood inspired Brasov sign. The view from up there must be spectacular!

Some good tips for places to check out in Brasov from fellow Belgian Blogger wonderfulwanderings.com

2. Visiting Bran Castle

Bran castle or commonly known as Dracula’s castle in fact doesn’t have anything to do with Dracula, the fictional story written by Bram Stoker. Dracula in fact was a real person and was the ruler of Wallachia a historical region that bordered with Transylvania in Romania. Dracula’s real name was actually Vlad III Dracula or Vlad the Impaler. Historians agree that the real Dracula never set foot in Bran Castle. The Romanian government decided to market Bran Castle as Dracula’s castle just because it looked scary. Let me tell you, the marketing worked! A bit to my dissapointment because this castle really gets overrun by tourists. Before entering the castle there is a huge market where you can find a wide range of food and souvenirs. Despite it being a bit of a tourist trap I did enjoy the interior of the castle.

As this article mostly covers details about a Romania road trip I assume you’re traveling with the car. Bran Castle lies about 30 minutes driving from Brasov with the car. There are also tour companies based in Brasov that organize tours to the castle.

3. Try Bean soup in bread

Although I’m not a huge foodie I still wanted to try the bean soup served in bread, locally known as Ciorba de Fasole in Paine. It was the first time I saw a soup served in bread and as it looked pretty cool I had to try it. The first word that comes mind to desribe this soup is hearty. With a single serving of this soup you will be satisfied for the rest of the day, not only because of the bread but also because of the beans. Give it a try, it’s definitely worth it.

4. Hike in Bucegi National Park

Bucegi national park is located South of Brasov and can be reached through the East side via the small mountain town Busteni. There is a cable car that costs 140 RON or 28 EUR for a return ticket. To know the exact operation times of the Busteni Telecabina visit the official website teleferic.ro

Sfinxul at Bucegi National Park.
Sfinxul at Bucegi National Park.

With more than 15 peaks over 2000 meters and the unique sculptures crafted by nature, like Sfinxul and Babele, the Bucegi National Park is a very popular destination amongst tourists.

When I visited in September 2021 I was overwhelmed with the length of the queue to get in the cable car. I started waiting to buy tickets but soon some people approached me to sell me a ride in a van towards a parking that isn’t too far from where the cable car would take me and this for the same price. I decided to take the chance to win some time. Looking back I could have driven with my own car to that parking actually.

If you’re reading this article you’re most likely traveling with a car so I would recommend to drive up to that parking yourself, the road was quite good. Do keep in mind that you need to pay an entrance fee to the national park and this needs to be paid in advance at the tourism office in Busteni. If you drive there yourself you also aren’t limited to the time schedule of the cable car.

Once you reach the plain where the cable car arrives (20 minute walk from above mentioned the parking) you will see the incredible rock formations such as the Sfinxul. A rock carved out because of wind erosion and rain, it looks quite impressive actually!

My plan was to hike to the Varful Omu peak (2514 m) and then make a loop to arrive back at the cable car. As I started of quite late I had to return earlier than expected to be able to catch the last cable car back down. This is my tracked route on Strava, if you would continue upwards you would reach Omu peak.

Download the GPX file right here: Bucegi-National-Park.gpx

I found this great article from Packing Up The Pieces that describes a multi-day trek in the Bucegi National Park from Sinaia to Bran.

7. Hike to Mt. Moldoveanu (2544 m)

Romania road trip itinerary 7th stop is Balea Lake: 2 hours and 30 minutes driving from Brasov
2 nights stay

Looking over Capra Lake in the Fagaras mountains.
Looking over Capra Lake in the Fagaras mountains.

Mount Moldoveanu (2544m) is the highest mountain of Romania and I decided to climb it during my road trip through Romania. It was one of the greatest challenges of my life but I would do it again immediately! If you’re up for a challenge I would highly recommend to climb this majestic mountain in the Făgăraș mountains of Romania!

To read the full article explaining the route to Moldoveanu starting from Balea Lac read this article: Hike to Moldoveanu, the highest mountain in Romania

8. Sibiu

Romania road trip itinerary 8th stop is Sibiu: 2 hours driving from Balea Lake
3 nights stay

Places to stay in Sibiu

When I look back on my Romania road trip Sibiu was my favorite city, I’m still not sure why but I think it was not only about the nice vibe around the city and the pretty colorful houses. Most likely it had something to do with the mood I was in as well. I had just climbed the highest mountain in Romania which released quite some endorphines in my body!

Similar to Brasov Sibiu is very touristy so lots of accomodation available in all price ranges.

Where I stayed:

Because I was spending my last nights in Romania I decided to treat myself to something a bit different. I’ve always been a huge fan of tiny houses, especially when these tiny cabins are surrounded by nature. On Instagram I had run in to some posts of @porumbacutreehouses and this was exactly what I needed for a few nights of ultimate relaxation.

Porumbacu Treehouses (link to their website)
Price was about 130 EUR / night
Click here to get the exact address

I do want to mention that I got 2 nights for free in return for some photos and a feature on my Youtube video but in all honesty I was ready to pay for the accomodation as it was a concept I really liked!

A-Frame tiny house at Porumbacu Treehouses.
A-Frame tiny house at Porumbacu Treehouses.

How expensive is Romania?

In total spread over 22 days I have spent about 1350 EUR and this is gasoline/rental car not included. That’s an average of about 60 EUR / day. This only covers the costs in Romania so not including costs made in other countries. Also consider that most hotel/guesthouse prices were for me alone. So if you’re going with multiple people the price might be a bit lower. I didn’t go to luxury resorts but not to the cheapest hotels either.

In total for accomodation I spent 650 EUR. Food and drinks were approximately 400 EUR. The rest of the budget went to entrances to activities, souvenirs, etc.

A comfy, non luxurious hotel costs on an average 20 – 50 EUR a night. A decent meal with drinks ranges from 5 – 20 EUR.

I hope this blog post helps you to plan your own trip to Romania. If you have more questions or suggestions send me a DM on my socials @timtense or an email to timtense@gmail.com

Enjoy your travels!

Another road trip guide that you might be interested in: Epic Albania Road Trip Guide – Car insurance? Budget? Is it SAFE?

5 thoughts on “Epic Romania Road Trip Guide – Off the Beaten Path Itinerary”

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